Problem

FIXED ANCHOR BAN PROPOSED FOR TAHQUITZ ROCK

"No new fixed anchors for rock climbing are allowed."

This is what is being proposed for the San Bernardino National Forest (which includes Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks) according to the USFS's draft revisions to the So. Cal. Land Management Plan ("SCLMP"). The ban would include any and all climbing areas in designated wilderness in the SBNF. This ban would prohibit any new route development that require fixed anchors (bolts, fixed pitons, slings left behind, fixed nuts, etc.). It would also likely ban replacement of existing fixed anchors, thwarting efforts to upgrade old bolts and other fixed gear (some of which has been in place for 60 years!)

Stealth Proposal Targets Climbers

No studies have ever been made by the Forest Service to determine whether there is any justification or need for the proposed ban. Neither has the Forest Service examined the likely consequences from such a drastic policy change. More troubling, the Forest Service never consulted with or advised any climbers or climber organizations about this proposal.

The SCLMP is available on-line to review and comments can be submitted on-line as well. The proposal is buried in the SCLMP, a very convoluted document which is difficult to navigate and search. Given the lack of notice and consultation and the burying of this proposal deep within the SCLMP, it is not unreasonable to conclude this proposed ban is a "Stealth" proposal calculated to take the climbing community by surprise.

The Comment period ends August 11, 2004. So don't wait, ACT NOW!

Solution (Follow these easy step by step instructions)

Voice your concerns to the USFS. It only takes 5-10 minutes to submit a comment. Every comment does count and will matter in determining policy. Even if you don't live in Southern CA, we hope that you will see the importance of this matter and submit your comments.

Comments are best made On-Line. Here is how to make an online comment:

Go to : http://scfpr.esri.com/scfpr/builds/build947/index5.htm Clicking this link will open it in a new page. You can keep this page open side by side to this instructions to make it easier.

1. Click on small box in upper left corner ["Select A Document": "Part 1, Co. Cal. National Forest..."]

2. Click: "Part 2: San Bernardino National Forest Strategy" [A document "Tree" will build on left]

3. Click: "Land Management Plan Strategy" [A document will appear on the right side of page]

4. Click: "Next" at top of right page

5. Click: "Prospectus" on the left side of page in the document "Tree." [A document will appear on the right side of page]

6. Click: "Next" at top of right page

7. Click: "Forest Specific Criteria" on the left side of page in the document "Tree." [A document will appear on the right side of page]

8. Click: "Next" at top of right page

9. Click: "Wilderness Standards" on the left side of page in the document "Tree." [A document will appear on the right side of page]

10. Go to bottom of page on right, then click: "Next" at bottom of page.

11. Scroll down page to SBNF10. [You have arrived]

12. Highlight: "SBNF10 No new fixed anchors for rock climbing are allowed."

13. Now go to top of the web page where the header says: "Click Here To Comment" this will open up a separate page that should be easy to follow.

A. Fill out the info on you at top.
B. Provide Comment [see back side for suggestions]
C. Paste the text you highlighted in the box by clicking "Capture Highlighted Text" button.

Here are some suggested points you might wish to cover in your comment, or make your own points:

OR, go to rockclimbing.com forum discussion to get some ideas on what you can write. The forum has some great suggestions for comments and helpful pointers.

(1) Many different climbing areas will be affected by this proposal, including Tahquitz Rock.
(2) Tahquitz has been a climbing area since 1936.
(3) Fixed anchors have been in use at Tahquitz for more than 60 years and are necessary for safety.
(4) Fixed anchors need to be replaced or improved occasionally.
(5) New routes may require some fixed anchors.
(6) Fixed anchors are NOT illegal under the Wilderness Act.
(7) Fixed anchors are essentially invisible except to climbers actually climbing a route .
(8) They are the minimum tool necessary to provide for safe climbing for some routes.
(9) This is a life or death situation for climbers.
(10) Many other wilderness areas, including NPS land in SoCal, are allowing bolt replacement and actively working on ways to allow new fixed anchors while at the same time avoiding resource and social conflict.
(11) The Forest Service unsuccessfully attempted a similar policy in 1997.
(12) The Forest Service has not studied the issue beside a failed Negotiated Rule Making process, a process that merely considers ideology and opinion.
(13) Economic studies (such as the ones conducted by Douglas Shaw of UNR) show the econonmic value of climbing in wilderness to surrounding local communities.

Special Thanks to those who did the research on this important issue and provided instructions. PLEASE ACT NOW